COSTA RICA 2000

Summary - March 27, 2000

Truly spectacular! We are unpacked and life is back to normal, so we can share some quick impressions...

As with any trip, there were a few disappointments - but they were nothing bad, and in fact the experiences we had instead were just as memorable.

Our connecting flight out of Miami on the way to San Jose had mechanical trouble, and they had to switch us to another plane. Consequently, we got in more than 2 hours late, and even though I had tried to call ahead, Elegante had given up on us. We adapted fine, taxied to our hotel, and collected the Pathfinder the next morning. So instead of a bright early start, we acclimated comfortably, and got on the road about 11:00. However, this meant that by the time we got to Arenal it was quite late, and there was no time for a hike or tour. This was fine, however, as we soaked up the unique atmosphere at the foot of the volcano.

The Book - Day One Throughout these pages there are references and links to "The Book." The Book was a three-ring binder with a large envelope for each day of the trip, and each of us had prepared a quote, picture, poem, or some such for each day. Each morning - at breakfast, in the car, or in an airport waiting room - we opened the day's envelope and read aloud each other's contributions.

The next day we were back on schedule, and arrived at Finca la Anita about 1:00. Lygia had lunch waiting as promised, and the rest of the visit went like clockwork. Tino and Lygia were generous beyond description, and welcomed us as if we were old family friends. Lee Mahoney showed for a brief visit, too, and we all chatted into the evening on the moonlit verandah and in the living room (exercising my meagre Spanish).

My daughters loved the horseback hike and wished for more... the river swim was perfect... the hike the next day to the albergue and into the rainforest with Oscar was just right. We came back down from the waterfall and dunked in the little hot springs, while Tino snapped pictures with our camera. An incredible day.

The next day Tino delayed his own departure for Liberia until we could leave together, and he invited us to meet his son Minor and see his own home in Liberia. We met his prize horse Whiskey and ate fresh mangoes from the neighboring orchard. This - as well as the unexpected lunch the previous day in Oscar's house - gave us really special glimpses into private Costa Rican life.

Our remaining days at Nosara were sun-soaked and relaxed - the only disappointment was missing the turtle arrivals, as it was the 'off-peak' season. We did go out to Playa Ostional one evening at the full moon, and in that spooky light saw the villagers hanging about waiting to offer themselves as guides (or harvest eggs?), but there were no females coming ashore just then. We'll have to return between August and January for the peak 'arribadas.' Nevertheless, I found it exciting to see the dark volcanic sand and the unmistakable pits where turtle nests had been.

I didn't heed Joy's plea to backtrack out of downtown Nosara (after we stopped for stamps at the Correo) to take the route we knew - instead, I "followed my nose" and it led us northeast (the right direction, mercifully) first through an incredible series of almost trackless loops back and forth across the upper reaches of the Rio Nosara riverbed, and then steeply up and out of the ravine onto an equally hair-raising track over several high ridges. Well, obviously I'm writing this now, so we did reach a paved road eventually. But for a while there was a chilly silence in the car, except for when we paused to ask the occasional iguana for directions.